Well, I’ve never been one to be extremely bothered by minor gaps in miniatures. Mostly because the time it takes to apply/fill/sand “Green Stuff” takes far longer than I have patience for to fill some small gaps.
Then I’m minding other people’s business by reading their blogs one day and come across “liquid green stuff”. My brain starts to churn. What could that be? Would it be edible and solve the world hunger crisis, like Soylent Green? I had to find out more…
Turns out it is a product used to fill in small gaps on minis. Let’s test this out!
Miniature Gaps, Check!
A quick aside, I’ve been working on these Dwarves for a bit. First having primed with rattle can primer, then with airbrush but using a brown color that I found difficult to paint over. Then I stripped them yet again, and reprimed with the airbrush using white. The whole time, I basically ignored and in some cases overlooked the gaps on those minis! On another note, the last reprime fell on a day of 50% humidity and temperature around 90F. Previous experience with rattle can primer during that type of weather, would have ended up a disaster. Airbrush primer though, worked like a champ!
Ok, so we have gaps. We have plastic putty. Let’s get to application.
Ready, set, go!
As you can see in the images. You can use clay tools…but also a brush! There is a before/after shot with the putty globbed on the brush. Then after dipped and swirl in water…and back to new! I used an old brush, as I didn’t really trust it to come clean, but it does. You’ll also only want to use a small amount of putty at a time, as it will start to dry pretty quick. I was snapping pics with my phone as I was puttying away, and it already started to dry. I tried adding some water back to the dry putty to see if I could rejuvenate it, but it ended up a chunky, chalky mess. Scratch that idea.
Probably the best bet is to apply a liberal amount to the mini using some clay shaping tools. I’d recommend different shapers to fit different spots and mold or remove the putty. The brush works best for blending the clay in with the rest of the model. The pic in the above left is after applying with a clay shaper tool. The pic on the right is after blending/smoothing the putty with a damp brush. Yea, wet your tools as you go. Not too much or it will start to dilute the putty. But enough to keep the putty from drying on the tools.
I ended up using just the brush to do the rest of the work. Probably too lazy to keep switching tools, but it felt like I was saving a little time as well.
Using the putty with a paint brush also brought back old memories of how I used to paint. Before I learned how important it is to really thin your paint, I used to end up painting with some really tacky paint. Meaning it was starting to dry too much. Working with that, inadvertently prepped me for working with plastic putty. Who knew that bad practices would pay off later?!
Here’s a Troll Slayer (my new favorite player, if I ever play Dwarves again!), after I finished up. If you compare to the pics above, you can see how well the putty works. Of note, the putty will shrink a little bit after it dries and I did end up with one small pencil tip sized hole afterwards. Easy enough to fix up, but just something to be mindful of. The putty dries kind of gummy. I imagine you could still sand if needed. I haven’t yet figured out if you should reprime over the putty or if you can simply apply paint on top. As an afterthought, I would definitely putty first and then prime in the future.
There are other brands than the Vallejo Plastic Putty I used as well. “Liquid Green Stuff” is thrown out there quite a bit. I haven’t tried them, but I thought Vallejo’s Plastic Putty turned out just fine, so I will probably just stick with it. It won’t work for large gaps though, and I had to use regular Green Stuff for that. Plastic Putty applies and dries pretty quick, so it is easier than Green Stuff for overall small gap fixes.